In the business world, we often talk about strategies, investments, and innovations, but rarely stop to think about something seemingly ordinary—clothing. Yet a suit or a dress can be a much stronger message than presentation slides or corporate speeches. Clothing goes beyond aesthetics to touch our professional competence. Research shows that it becomes a communication tool capable of generating trust, enhancing authority, and even influencing our psychological state.
It is no coincidence that many iconic leaders have become recognizable precisely through their visual image. Steve Jobs with his black turtleneck, Margaret Thatcher with her pearl necklaces, Winston Churchill with his cigar—these are examples of how an item of clothing or accessory becomes a leader’s “signature.” In fact, style becomes part of a leader’s communication strategy, because through it they can convey many important messages.
How quickly do we form a first impression of someone? Many books repeat the assumption—three seconds. But scientists have proven that not even a second is needed. Just one-tenth of a second is enough for the mind to make judgments about a person’s status, competence, and even charisma.
Interestingly, while expensive clothing signals higher social status, it does not increase trust. A smile, direct eye contact, and a harmoniously chosen outfit, however, can significantly enhance both likability and confidence in your professionalism. This is the very moment when the answer to the decisive question emerges—whether the conversation partner is willing to listen to you and follow your lead.
It is also important to understand that the laws of first impressions work in both directions—they influence not only how others perceive us but also how we feel ourselves. In one study, office employees were free to choose their attire. For ten days they filled out questionnaires about what they wore, their self-esteem, interactions with colleagues, and work productivity. The results showed that aesthetic and original clothing boosted self-esteem, which in turn contributed to success in professional tasks. Clothing that fit the work environment had a similar effect, but only on days when employees frequently interacted with colleagues. Clothing acts much like armor—it not only protects but also empowers.
What does a “typical leader” look like? The answer seems obvious—a suit, tie, formal style. Yet reality is more nuanced. Studies show that while leaders are most often associated with formal attire, charisma often arises from contrast. In a hierarchical organization, a leader who dares to appear in more casual clothing may seem more charismatic. Meanwhile, in a flexible, creative company, a formal look leaves a stronger impression.
Thus, a true leader embodies two opposing forces: on the one hand, a stable, professional image that conveys authority; on the other, the courage to break the rules and create an impression through deliberate contrast. A real leader always plays with these boundaries. They know when to embody the strictness of a classic suit and when to make a bold gesture that shows individuality.
Fashion researcher and art PhD Una Pūpola, in her study What’s Wrong with This Woman?, discusses how clothing still plays a special role for women in the business environment. It is a tool that allows them to balance between professionalism and femininity, between the individual and the social. The “power suit” is both armor and platform. It helps a woman affirm her belonging to the corporate world, while still preserving the possibility of telling her own story through her image.
And yet—femininity in the business environment still comes at a cost. Power is still associated with the masculine in people’s minds, and women must balance between society’s expectations of “proper” body management and the assertion of professional competence. Interviewing 19 top-level managers in Latvia, Una Pūpola found that Latvian women leaders approach this strategically, using their visual image as another communication channel. It becomes both an empowering tool of strength and a historical compromise—an opportunity to enter the patriarchal business world, first by “copying the man,” and later by creating their own language of rules.
During the pandemic years, we all experienced a new dimension of image—the virtual one. A suit jacket combined with homewear bottoms became the norm, with 75% of employees admitting to dressing this way for video conferences from home. But research shows that this “mixing” is not as harmless as it seems. It creates psychological dissonance: the body is at home, but the mind is at work. The result? Lower engagement and discomfort.
Another essential aspect emerges here—the environment. Studies show that a neutral background, a bookshelf, or tasteful decor generates trust and a sense of competence among conversation partners. Virtual backgrounds of outer space or tropical islands, on the other hand, tend to provoke irony. This means that even your Zoom space is a business card and deserves as much attention as your tie or earrings. The background in a video call can also convey important messages. Have you consciously thought about what exactly should be visible in the frame to leave the right impression?
Clothing is also a language of social signals. Back in the 19th century, economist Thorstein Veblen wrote about “conspicuous consumption”—the desire to display wealth as a status marker. But modern research proves that in collaborative situations, this strategy may backfire. Luxury logos on a shirt create an impression of selfishness, which reduces trust.
This means that in certain situations, modesty can be a more strategically beneficial choice for a modern leader than glamour. If the goal is to reach agreement, it is better to leave the luxurious symbols at home and choose simpler yet tasteful clothing. Clothing can be a bridge or a wall—the choice is in our hands.
The most important thing—clothing can become a leader’s ally. It can give strength, help focus, and influence both personal and team results. But only if we use it consciously. So next time, when choosing clothes for a workday, an interview, or a conference speech, ask yourself: To whom and what message do I want to convey today?
Dr.Sc.Comm. Olga Kazaka, Partner at the public relations agency Olsen+Partners, author of The First PR Book
Photo of Olga Kazaka