Our Attitude Toward Women Leaders: What Does the “Power Suit” Reveal?

In the political and corporate environment, clothing is more than just a matter of style or fashion. It is a powerful social signal that serves as a mediator between an individual’s inner identity and society’s expectations. The “power suit” – the classic corporate uniform – has become a symbol that provides a sense of belonging and authority. In its modern sense, it took shape in the corporate culture of the West during the 1970s and 1980s. The “power suit” symbolized women’s growing emancipation and helped construct an image that conveyed competence and leadership. In other words, as women assumed leadership positions in politics and business, they were “advised” to abandon “feminine frivolity” and visually resemble their male colleagues in suits in order to be perceived as professionally equal.

The increasing number of women in professional environments spurred discussions about the significance of the “power suit” in shaping identity. It opened opportunities for women to assert authority and professionalism, but at the same time meant adapting to a male-dominated corporate culture by adopting its visual codes. Thus, the entry of the “power suit” into women’s wardrobes serves as both direct and indirect proof that inhabiting a female body influences one’s power potential and professional capital. The paradox of the “power suit” in women’s wardrobes lies in the fact that it simultaneously empowers and enables, while also reflecting conformity to the codes created by patriarchy.

It must be acknowledged that there is a gap between conservative fields such as law, where visual identity norms remain strict, and newer industries like IT or advertising, where freedom and comfort are on the rise. Nevertheless, in all cases it is clear – society maintains a certain micro social order in which the visual image is confined to stereotypical frameworks, and a woman in the corporate environment must reckon with the fact that her body, even when concealed within a suit, is more present and judged differently than a man’s body.

Why is this important? Because women’s visual identity is still interpreted through traditional notions and societal expectations of femininity, which dictate how a woman “should look,” especially in the business world. These visual codes allow women to gain authority and climb the career ladder, yet at the same time also face punishment for their choice to be in positions of power. This inevitably raises the question of a sensitive, invisible boundary – how not to cross that “fine line” where femininity ends and the “undesirable” sexuality of the business environment begins. This double reality brings gender equality to the forefront of discussion not only in contemporary politics and business but in society as a whole.

Opinion piece by fashion researcher and designer Una Pūpola / @unattached.dresscode